A fine emerald is one of the most beautiful stones you can own, and one of the easiest to misjudge. This guide covers what to look at, what questions to ask and how we describe the emeralds in our loose emerald collection, so you can buy with clear eyes.
Colour and tone come first
With emerald, colour matters more than anything else. The most prized stones show a pure, saturated green, neither too dark nor too pale, with a slight blue or yellow secondary tone at most.
Judge colour in daylight and under indoor light. Emerald can look very different in each. We are happy to send a daylight video of any stone before you decide.
Clarity and the jardin
Almost every natural emerald has inclusions. Gem dealers call them the jardin, French for garden, because they can look like moss or branches inside the stone. A visible jardin is normal and is not a reason to reject a stone. What matters is that inclusions do not break the surface in a way that weakens the stone or spoil its colour and life face-up.
Be cautious of an emerald that looks completely clean at a low price. Flawless-looking emeralds are rare, and an unusually clean, inexpensive stone may be lab-grown or heavily filled.
Oiling: the standard emerald treatment
Most emeralds are oiled. Colourless oil is introduced into tiny surface-reaching fissures so they show less. It is a long-established, widely accepted practice. Minor oil is the lightest level and is stable under normal wear.
At Roho Jewels, every emerald is minor oil unless the listing says no oil. We never sell an oiled stone as untreated, and if an independent lab finds a treatment we did not disclose, you get a full refund. Resin filling and heavier treatments are a different matter and should always be disclosed; our gemstone treatment guide explains each label.
Caring for an oiled emerald
Clean emeralds with lukewarm water, mild soap and a soft brush. Avoid ultrasonic and steam cleaners, strong heat and harsh solvents, which can draw out oil and make fissures more visible.
Colombian vs Zambian character
Colombian emeralds
Colombia is the classic source, with famous mining regions such as Muzo, Chivor and Coscuez. Colombian stones are known for a warm, vivid green, and their inclusions can include the three-phase inclusions gemmologists use to help identify them.
Zambian emeralds
Zambia is one of the world's leading sources today. Zambian emeralds often show a deep green with a slightly bluish tone, a look many buyers love for its crisp, cool colour.
Neither origin is simply better. Choose the green you love, and treat origin as a statement that should be backed by a lab report when it affects price.
Cuts: emerald cut and oval
The emerald cut, with its long step facets and cut corners, was developed for this stone. It shows colour in calm planes of light, and the cut corners help protect a brittle gem. Our 0.45 ct Colombian emerald cut (6.0 x 4.5 mm, minor to no oil) is a good example at a dainty size.
The oval gives more sparkle and a softer outline, and often looks larger face-up for its weight. Our 1.82 ct Colombian oval measures 9.9 x 7.9 mm in a vivid, saturated green, with minor to no oil.
Setting and wear
Emerald is Mohs 7.5 to 8, but natural inclusions make it more brittle than sapphire or ruby. For a ring worn daily, a bezel or a halo helps protect the edges and corners. Avoid sharp knocks, and take an emerald ring off for the gym, gardening or housework.
Lab reports vs in-house checks
An independent lab report confirms that a stone is natural emerald, states the degree of oil or other treatment, and may give an opinion on origin. Some of our stones carry reports or documents; you can see them in our certified gemstones collection.
Many of our emeralds are checked in-house instead, and the listing says so plainly. For example, our 2.51 ct Zambian emerald cut, a bluish green stone with minor oil, comes with a GS Laboratories appraisal certificate (Certificate of Evaluation) rather than a full lab report, and the listing explains the difference. For stones without a report, we can arrange a GIA, GRS or AGL report on request and tell you the cost and timing first.
Panna and Jyotish
In Vedic astrology, emerald is known as Panna and is traditionally associated with Mercury. If you are choosing a stone for astrological reasons, consult a qualified Jyotish practitioner about weight, metal and wearing, and tell us what you have been advised so we can suggest suitable natural stones.
Buying from Toronto
Every emerald is hand-selected in our Toronto studio and described honestly: origin where known, weight, measurements and treatment.
- Free insured worldwide shipping from Toronto, Canada, shipped the next business day
- 30-day returns (return postage paid by the buyer); holiday orders placed November 1 to December 31 can be returned until January 31
- Free gift wrap with a handwritten card
- Lifetime guarantee that every gemstone is natural and genuine, or your money back
- Daylight video of any stone on request
Ask us about any stone
Browse our loose emeralds, or tell us the colour, size and budget you have in mind. We will reply with matching stones, their treatment notes and a daylight video.
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