Antique gemstone cuts are the shapes gem cutters used before modern machines and computer-planned proportions. They were cut by hand, by eye, often by candlelight, and they look different from today's stones: softer sparkle, broader flashes of colour, a little asymmetry. This guide walks through the main antique and vintage cuts, the era each one belongs to, and how to recognise them, with real examples from our own vault that you can buy.
The antique cuts at a glance
Each diagram shows the stone from above. Dates are the period when each cut was most used, not hard limits.
Point & table cut
1300s–1600s
Rose cut
1500s–1900s
Briolette
Medieval–Edwardian
Peruzzi cut
Late 1600s–1700s
Old mine cut
1700s–1890s
Old European cut
1870s–1930s
Native / antique cushion
Pre-1950s, coloured gems
Lozenge cut
Georgian–Victorian
Asscher & step cut
1902–Art Deco
Baguette
1920s–1930s
Bullet cut
1920s–1930s
Cabochon
Antiquity–today
Top-view facet diagrams, drawn by Roho Jewels for this guide.
Point cut and table cut (1300s–1600s)
The earliest faceted diamonds simply followed the stone's natural eight-sided crystal, polished to a point. The table cut came next: cutters ground the top point flat, leaving a square "table" surrounded by sloping sides. Table cuts look dark and mirror-like to modern eyes, because the goal was a glassy surface, not sparkle. They turn up in Renaissance rings and are rare on the market today.
Rose cut (1500s to early 1900s)
A rose cut has a flat base and a domed top covered in triangular facets that rise to a point, like a closed rosebud. There is no pointed underside (pavilion), so the stone sits low and wide. Instead of sharp white sparkle, a rose cut gives a soft, candle-lit glow, and it shows more of the stone's colour. Rose cuts were used for diamonds in Georgian and Victorian jewellery and for coloured gems well into the 20th century.
Natural Ceylon sapphires in 1930s rose cuts, from an estate collection. All in stock.
Rose cut Ceylon sapphires, 7 mm, 1.13–1.45 ct1930s estate cut · natural · 5 availableView → Rose cut Ceylon sapphire, 6 mm, 0.83 ct1930s estate cut · natural · one of a kindView →Briolette
A briolette is a teardrop covered all over in triangular facets, with no flat table at all. It is usually drilled at the top and hung, so light passes through it from every side. Briolettes go back to medieval Europe and India and were especially loved in Edwardian drop earrings and necklaces.
Peruzzi cut (late 1600s–1700s)
The Peruzzi cut, traditionally credited to a Venetian cutter named Vincenzo Peruzzi, added a second ring of facets to the cushion-shaped stones of the day. It is often called the first "brilliant", because it was the first cut designed mainly for sparkle. Peruzzi cuts are very rare, and most were later recut.
Old mine cut (1700s–1890s)
The old mine cut is a squarish cushion with a small table, a tall crown and a large flat bottom facet (the "open culet") that you can see through the top as a small circle. It takes its name from the "old mines" of India and Brazil, where the diamonds of that era came from. In candlelight it shows big, chunky flashes instead of fine glitter.
Old European cut (1870s–1930s)
When cutting lathes made it possible to shape a truly round outline, the old mine cut evolved into the Old European cut: round, with a small table, high crown and the same visible open culet. It is the direct ancestor of today's round brilliant, which was refined after 1919. Old European cuts are the classic diamond of Edwardian and Art Deco engagement rings.
Native and antique cushion cuts in coloured gems
Coloured stones followed a different path. For centuries, sapphires and rubies in Sri Lanka, Burma and Thailand were cut locally to keep as much weight as possible. These "native" or antique cuts are usually oval or cushion shaped, with a deep, slightly uneven underside and hand-placed facets. They can look a little irregular, but they often show richer colour, and they are one reason old unheated stones survived at large sizes.
Antique-cut, unheated natural Ceylon yellow sapphires (Pukhraj). All in stock.
Antique yellow sapphire, 30.47 ct, oval cushionUnheated · natural Ceylon · one of a kindView → Antique yellow sapphire pair, 57.02 ctUnheated · natural Ceylon · matched ovalsView →Lozenge cut
A lozenge cut is a long diamond shape (a rhombus) with stepped facets. Lozenge stones appear in Georgian and Victorian jewellery and in Mughal pieces, often set in rows or used to frame a centre stone.
Step cuts of the Art Deco era: Asscher, baguette and bullet
Step cuts have long, flat facets arranged in rows like stairs. Instead of sparkle, they give a "hall of mirrors" look and show off clarity and colour. The Asscher cut, a square step cut with clipped corners, was introduced by the Asscher brothers of Amsterdam in 1902. In the 1920s and 1930s, Art Deco jewellers made step cuts the signature of the period:
- Baguette: a slim rectangle, used as side stones or lined up in bracelets.
- Bullet cut: a baguette with one pointed end, made to sit on either side of a centre stone and point toward it.
- Calibré cuts: small stones cut to an exact size and shape so they fit tightly into a design, with no metal showing between them.
Matched pairs from this period are hard to find, because each pair was cut together to mirror each other.
Three matched pairs of 1930s bullet cut natural Ceylon sapphires. All in stock.
Blue sapphire bullet cut pair, 2.39 ct1930s cut · natural Ceylon · matched pairView → Orange sapphire bullet cut pair, 1.56 ct1930s cut · natural Ceylon · matched pairView → Orange sapphire bullet cut pair, 1.06 ct1930s cut · natural Ceylon · matched pairView →Cabochon: the oldest cut of all
Before faceting existed, gems were polished into smooth domes called cabochons. The cut never went out of use, because some stones look best this way. Star sapphires and star rubies must be cut as cabochons, since the dome is what gathers light into the star. Read more in our guide to star sapphires and star rubies.
Natural Madagascar blue sapphire cabochon pair, 5.93 ct. In stock.
Blue sapphire cabochon pair, 5.93 ctNatural Madagascar · high dome · matched pairView →How to tell a true antique cut from a modern copy
Many new stones are now cut in "old mine" or "rose cut" styles. These signs point to an original hand-cut stone:
- Small table and tall crown. Antique cuts usually have a smaller top facet and a higher top than modern stones.
- Open culet. A visible circle at the centre when viewed from above (old mine and Old European cuts).
- Slight asymmetry. Facets that don't meet perfectly, and outlines that are a little off-round or off-square.
- Wear on edges. Tiny chips or rounded facet edges from decades of being worn.
- Documentation. Provenance, an estate history, or a lab report that notes the cut style.
Frequently asked questions
Are antique cut gemstones more valuable?
It depends on the stone. For diamonds, well-made old mine and Old European cuts are sought after and can sell for more than modern cuts of similar quality. For coloured gems, value depends mostly on colour, size, clarity and treatment, but a fine original antique cut adds appeal and story.
What is the difference between antique and vintage?
In jewellery, "antique" usually means more than 100 years old, and "vintage" means at least 20 to 30 years old. A 1930s Art Deco cut is vintage today and will become antique in the next few years.
Do antique cuts sparkle less?
They sparkle differently. Antique cuts show larger, slower flashes and more body colour, which is why they look so good in candlelight and soft indoor light.
Can I set an antique cut stone in a new ring?
Yes. Bullet cut and baguette pairs make classic side stones, and rose cuts sit low and are ideal for everyday rings. Your jeweller will just need the exact measurements, which we list on every product.
Buy antique and vintage cut gemstones from Roho Jewels
Every stone shown in this guide is natural and available from our Toronto vault. Browse the full Vintage & Specialty Cuts collection or our Sapphire Pairs & 1930s Cuts. We cover shipping on every order, and you can message us any time for more photos or videos of a stone.
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